Attaching wire mesh fencing to an existing or newly constructed timber post and rail frame is an effective way to increase security, provide wind protection, and prevent animals from entering an area.
In areas like Farnborough, where expertise in fencing solutions is valued, Farnborough fencing contractors specialize in installing wire mesh fencing with timber post and rail frames. These Farnborough fencing experts ensure proper installation techniques, providing durable and effective security solutions tailored to the specific needs of properties in the region.
Tools and Materials
Proper tools and quality materials are essential for any fencing project. Attempting to cut corners with subpar equipment or supplies will likely lead to a fence that fails prematurely. It can end up costing more time and money in the long run to fix any issues that arise from improperly installed fencing.
Essential Tools
You don’t need an exhaustive array of fancy gadgets and specialty tools, but having the basics covered will make the installation process much easier. Here are the absolute essentials:
- Wire Cutters: You’ll need a sharp and durable set of wire cutters designed for cutting fence mesh and hardware cloth. Don’t try using an old worn out pair. New cutters will slice through the wire cleanly without leaving frayed ends.
- Screwdriver: A manual screwdriver with interchangeable heads works perfectly fine. Power drills or drivers will speed things up tremendously and are highly recommended for larger fencing jobs.
- Measuring Tape: Accuracy is key when measuring, spacing, and cutting fence components to size. A quality 25 foot tape measure is ideal.
- Post Level: A basic post level that attaches to the top of a post with a string and weight is all you need. This allows you to easily identify posts that aren’t perfectly plumb.
Materials Checklist
Gathering all the necessary materials before starting any digging or construction is critically important. Nothing slows down a project faster than making multiple trips to gather forgotten items. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Timber Posts: Sustainably sourced, pressure treated softwood is recommended. Typical sizes are 3-4 inches thick and 5-6 feet long.
- Rails: Pressure treated 2×4 lumber is commonly used. Cut into 8-10 foot lengths.
- Wire Mesh: Galvanized wire mesh with grid openings of 2 inches or smaller. Available in rolls up to 50 feet long.
- Fasteners: Galvanized screws, nails, staples, wire, etc. Must be compatible with pressure treated lumber.
- Post Mix: Pre-mixed dry Postcrete or similar quick-setting concrete. Makes securing posts much easier.
- Work Gloves & Safety Equipment: Quality gloves, glasses, boots, etc. for personal protection.
Planning and Layout
The single most important (and often overlooked) step when installing any type of fencing is proper planning and layout. Failing to map out your fence line, identify property boundaries, check local ordinances, and accurately space components will ultimately come back to bite you. Do it right from the beginning and you’ll have smooth sailing for the rest of the project.
Measure Twice, Dig Once
The old adage reminds us that meticulously checking measurements pays dividends over just “winging it” and hoping for the best.
First step is walking the perimeter you want to enclose and noting any specific obstacles, like trees and pipes. Use measuring tape to measure the total distance. Re-check it. Double check for accuracy. Accuracy is truly vital at this stage.
Next, verify that your planned fence line does not cross into a neighbor’s yard or violate any local ordinances. Nothing sours neighborly relations faster than encroaching on someone else’s property. Better to find out ahead of time rather than after holes have been dug. Check with your city planning office to ensure compliance with local zoning restrictions too. Many have limits on fence heights and boundary locations.
Space Your Posts
With your verified measurements and compliance checks complete, some quick math will determine exactly how many posts and rails you’ll need.
As a general rule of thumb, spaced 8 feet apart for most yard applications. If enclosing livestock or other strength/security considerations exist, opt for 6 foot spacing. At corners and gates leave a 3-4 foot gap between the posts.
Mark your post hole locations with stakes and string. Having them visually mapped makes the actual digging go much faster. Measure twice…dig once.
Installing Timber Posts and Rails
Now the real construction begins! Properly anchoring the vertical posts provides the critical foundation for the rest of fence. Rushing through this important step often leads to uneven posts, waving lines, and sagging mesh.
Dig Post Holes
Post hole digging consumes the majority of labor when building any type of timber fence. Getting nice straight holes excavated to uniform depths isn’t particularly complicated, although it is backbreaking hard work.
General guidelines:
- Diameter – At least 4 times the width of the post
- Depth – Typically 3 feet or below frost line
Deeper holes provide more stability, with 4 foot depths recommended on corner posts or areas with loose soil. Motorized augers can drill nice uniform holes quickly, but come at a higher rental cost. The good ole fashioned post hole digger and shovel works just fine.
Mark completed depths clearly on posts as you dig holes to easily identify proper insertion depths.
Stand Up and Plumb Posts
Slip posts into holes and hold them extended above grade by 1-2 inches (to allow space for final grade leveling later). Position rails to confirm appropriate spacing as you work.
Use levels frequently to true-up plumbness on corner and gate posts while backfilling. Insert shims if minor adjustments are needed to gain perfectly straight vertical alignment. Remove shims prior to final compaction.
Mix and pour dry Postcrete (or similar post mix product) per manufacturer recommendations. Most require digging 6 inches below final depth, filling with 4-6 inches of product, inserting post, then pouring rest around post and backfilling. Tamp frequently while drying to compact.
Attaching Wire Mesh Fencing
With posts and rails firmly set and drying, focus shifts to securely fastening the all-important protective wire mesh barrier. How you orient it, fasten it off, and tension it will significantly impact performance and lifespan. Do this properly and it will provide many years of durable service requiring little maintenance.
Unroll and Drape Mesh Over Frame
Unroll mesh along planned fence line, keeping it oriented vertically. The finished edge along top and bottom is usually a tighter weave to prevent sagging over time. Having this tighter edge across the top enhances durability.
Pull mesh taut as you drape over timber frame. Do not allow excess slack, folds, wrinkles, or overlapping areas. Tensioned tight as a drum creates a crisply aligned perimeter when secured.
Visually align first column edge with external post line, then spread mesh over frame and temporarily secure with clamps at bottom. You should have to pull firmly to remove any slack. Cut mesh for gates and leave service loops for stretching.
Secure Mesh to Posts and Rails
With desired tension set and alignment spot on, securing with fasteners completes the mesh installation:
- Use fence staples, hoop nails, or heavy gauge wire to attach mesh to posts every 6 inches top-to-bottom.
- Follow up by attaching the mesh to each horizontal rail with staples/nails every 8 to 12 inches.
- Focus extra fastening onpotential high-stress corners and gates.
The tight uniform grid pattern distributes tension evenly, but strategic fastening prevents future sagging or detachment over years of weather and use. stepping back to visually spot-check for smooth alignment is easy but critical.
Tips and Considerations
Optimizing your new wire and timber fence to enhance security, blend with the landscape, and minimize maintenance comes down to properly planning for longevity during installation. Here are some useful things to consider:
Weatherproof Timber Components
The natural enemies of any wood fence are water, sun, dirt, and insects. Fighting the elements to preserve your investment starts before fence components even go into the ground. Look for sustainably harvested timber with incised pressure treatment offering 25+ year anti-rot warranties. Once installed, apply brush-on water sealants or wood preservative stains to protect the fence from UV and moisture damage above grade. Reapply protective coatings every 2-3 years on the timber components for enhanced longevity.
Add Top Rails for Extra Stability
Over time, wire mesh fences tend to sag a bit. This leads to unsightly bulges, folds, and gaps along the top line of fencing. An easy way to combat this natural gravitational process is adding a pressure treated 2×4 top rail bracketed across the tops of all posts. This helps reinforce the wire mesh to maintain that crisp linear form for decades.
Dig Gates and Corners Deep
Gate posts and corner posts bear more shear stress than standard fencing. To prevent leaning over the years, increase depth on these posts for extra stability. A good rule of thumb is an entire extra foot of depth (4 feet total) on corner posts and gate hanging posts. Consider mixing in concrete around these crucial points as well for unparalleled anchoring strength.
Frequently Asked Questions
Some common questions that come up when planning and installing wire mesh fencing include:
Can wire mesh fencing be installed on uneven terrain?
Yes, with careful planning it is possible to attach wire mesh fencing on slopes or hills. Using variable post heights that follow the contour lines allows the mesh to drape evenly across uneven ground. This prevents skipped openings and gaps along the bottom edge. Digging holes on angles and securing corner posts at acute angles bolsters stability on steep slopes.
What is the recommended height for wire mesh fencing?
Desired height depends upon the enclosure purpose, zoning laws, and wind exposure levels:
- Property/Garden – 4 to 5 foot height meets typical residential aesthetics and containment needs.
- Pets/Livestock – 5 to 6 foot height deters jumpers while allowing good airflow.
- High Winds – Lower heights (under 5 feet) help minimize wind resistance and potential for collapse during storms.
- Intruder Protection – 7 to 10 foot commercial security heights thwart climbers. Verify compliance first.
Evaluate your unique needs, laws, terrain and make height selections accordingly. Remember, fence height includes post aboveground height.
How can I maintain and clean wire mesh fencing?
Regular fence inspection and maintenance preserves aesthetic appeal and enhances longevity. Hand cleaning annually with a wire brush removes clinging debris. Rinse clean with gentle pressure from a garden hose nozzle. Severe corrosion may necessitate replacing individual damaged wire mesh panels. Resealing timber posts as needed protects from ongoing rot. Keep vegetation cleared several feet back from fence perimeter.
Are there any regulations for installing wire mesh fencing in the UK?
Specific regulatory bodies, design guidelines, and zoning restrictions vary widely across different counties and municipalities in the UK. However, some common considerations exist:
- Historic preservation districts often limit fence style/height.
- Commercial/industrial zones prohibit certain fence types. Chainlink is common requirement.
- Residential fences above 1 meter (3.3 ft) require approval.
- Setbacks from roads, waterways, and existing structures dictated by county codes.
- Agricultural, equestrian, and farms have expanded options.
Always verify local ordinances with council planners or private architects before installing fencing to avoid violations requiring removal. Things like site lines, aesthetics, and wildlife corridors influence approvals.
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